I never thought it would be so hard to find 2 lousy utility poles! I guess I got lucky with the first 6... It took me 2 months of searching Craigs List, eBay, etc... with no results (except the folks that brought me out a couple of rotten poles that had been used for a dock, hehe) Finally found that a local lumber yard could order some from up north at a slightly exorbitant cost, but I was getting desperate by now........
Then one day I was rolling down the sandy road and there was a new neighbor from down the road. I stopped to say hi....said I lived over at the Pole House. He did a double take and said "well if you ever need any more just let me know"......turns out he had a special line on 'em....boy was I glad to meet him, I ended up with enough poles to finish the house, build an attached screen porch, and build several structures at our ranch house closer to town.
Desert Cabin Diaries
Monday, August 6, 2018
Monday, May 21, 2012
Dutch Oven Cooking
Dutch Oven At Work

We love cooking with Cast Iron and especially with our Dutch Oven. First of all, the food is unbelievably good, secondly it's a special way to cook. It may take a bit more time, but that's how they did it in the old days and there's a reason. Try it yourself and find out why!
Dutch Oven Cooking Tips - Getting Started
Cooking with a Dutch Oven
Some of the best advice we ever got was from a friend who turned us on to Cast Iron dutch ovens. Not to be confused with indoor dutch ovens. The outdoor cast-iron variety are a really special thing and can produce some of the best food you've ever tasted!
So first let's go over exactly what is a Dutch Oven?
From Wikipedia:
A Dutch oven is a thick-walled (usually cast iron) cooking pot with a tight-fitting lid. Dutch ovens have been used as cooking vessels for hundreds of years. They are called "casserole dishes" in English speaking countries other than the USA, and cocottes in French, They are similar to both the Japanese tetsunabe and the Sa, a traditional Balkan cast-iron oven, and are related to the South African Potjieand the Australian Bedourie oven.
Their history in America started in the 1600's:
Over time, the Dutch oven used in the American colonies began to change. The pot became shallower and legs were added to hold the oven above the coals. A flange was added to the lid to keep the coals on the lid and out of the food.[2]
The cast-iron cookware was loved by colonists and settlers because of its versatility and durability. It could be used for boiling, baking, stews, frying, roasting, and just about any other use. The ovens were so valuable that wills in the 18th and 19th centuries frequently spelled out the desired inheritor of the cast iron cookware. When the young American country began to spread westward across the North American continent, so did the Dutch oven. A Dutch oven was among the gear Lewis and Clark carried when they explored the great American Northwest in 1804-1806. The pioneers who settled the American West also took along their Dutch ovens.
So now that we know what they are, how do they work for us?
A dutch oven will typically have legs, usually three. This will allow it to be put over hot coals or wood. They also have a flanged lid, which holds a small amount of coals on top of the oven for even cooking. So the heat radiates from both top and bottom, hence the name 'oven'. You will find some'Dutch Ovens' with no legs, a flat bottom and a normal lid. These are ok for regular use but will diminish their use as an oven.
So you've decided to purchase a Dutch Oven for your own outdoor use. What size is best?
They come in all sizes and bigger is not always better, for instance a 12 " oven will make too much food for 2 people and take too long to heat up. We've found that a 4 quart is the best size for a couple or a small family.
Next choice is pre-seasoned or un-seasoned?
All cast iron needs to be seasoned, so it's just a matter of; do you want the experience of doing it yourself? It can be a pain, but you will save money on the purchase and have the 'joy' of doing it yourself, maybe even get in touch with your ancestors or something like that.
So to season your dutch oven, here's what you do: first, wash it in hot water and soap to remove the factory wax residue designed to keep it from rusting during it's time in transit, next, put it in your oven to dry it completely. 10 minutes at 300 will suffice. Then wipe the inside and outside with a fatty or oily substance. Some people use a vegetable based oil or Crisco, but we use bacon fat or lard as it has a higher 'burn-in' temperature and is supposed to meld with the iron better.
Next, you can put your dutch oven in the regular oven at home, or, on a campfire. A campfire is easiest and less trouble, but frankly, most people do it at home. You'll need to heat it for 3 hours and then let it come back to room temperature. 300 degrees or hotter is needed, but you will have more smoke with more heat. CAUTION: if done indoors, this will generate a fair amount of smoke, so get ready to open your windows and have a fan going!
When you wash your oven, do not use soap and water as it will possibly cause rust. You can either just wipe them out with oil, or if you prefer, boil some water in them using the same coals you just cooked over. Then, wipe out, dry thoroughly and re-coat with oil or grease.
The first 5 cooking sessions should not include any acidic foods, like tomatoes, vinegar etc.. this will remove the very coating you are trying to get going on your iron.
Next time- some great recipes straight from the great outdoors!
Some of the best advice we ever got was from a friend who turned us on to Cast Iron dutch ovens. Not to be confused with indoor dutch ovens. The outdoor cast-iron variety are a really special thing and can produce some of the best food you've ever tasted!
So first let's go over exactly what is a Dutch Oven?
From Wikipedia:
A Dutch oven is a thick-walled (usually cast iron) cooking pot with a tight-fitting lid. Dutch ovens have been used as cooking vessels for hundreds of years. They are called "casserole dishes" in English speaking countries other than the USA, and cocottes in French, They are similar to both the Japanese tetsunabe and the Sa, a traditional Balkan cast-iron oven, and are related to the South African Potjieand the Australian Bedourie oven.
Their history in America started in the 1600's:
Over time, the Dutch oven used in the American colonies began to change. The pot became shallower and legs were added to hold the oven above the coals. A flange was added to the lid to keep the coals on the lid and out of the food.[2]
The cast-iron cookware was loved by colonists and settlers because of its versatility and durability. It could be used for boiling, baking, stews, frying, roasting, and just about any other use. The ovens were so valuable that wills in the 18th and 19th centuries frequently spelled out the desired inheritor of the cast iron cookware. When the young American country began to spread westward across the North American continent, so did the Dutch oven. A Dutch oven was among the gear Lewis and Clark carried when they explored the great American Northwest in 1804-1806. The pioneers who settled the American West also took along their Dutch ovens.
So now that we know what they are, how do they work for us?
A dutch oven will typically have legs, usually three. This will allow it to be put over hot coals or wood. They also have a flanged lid, which holds a small amount of coals on top of the oven for even cooking. So the heat radiates from both top and bottom, hence the name 'oven'. You will find some'Dutch Ovens' with no legs, a flat bottom and a normal lid. These are ok for regular use but will diminish their use as an oven.
So you've decided to purchase a Dutch Oven for your own outdoor use. What size is best?
They come in all sizes and bigger is not always better, for instance a 12 " oven will make too much food for 2 people and take too long to heat up. We've found that a 4 quart is the best size for a couple or a small family.
Next choice is pre-seasoned or un-seasoned?
All cast iron needs to be seasoned, so it's just a matter of; do you want the experience of doing it yourself? It can be a pain, but you will save money on the purchase and have the 'joy' of doing it yourself, maybe even get in touch with your ancestors or something like that.
So to season your dutch oven, here's what you do: first, wash it in hot water and soap to remove the factory wax residue designed to keep it from rusting during it's time in transit, next, put it in your oven to dry it completely. 10 minutes at 300 will suffice. Then wipe the inside and outside with a fatty or oily substance. Some people use a vegetable based oil or Crisco, but we use bacon fat or lard as it has a higher 'burn-in' temperature and is supposed to meld with the iron better.
Next, you can put your dutch oven in the regular oven at home, or, on a campfire. A campfire is easiest and less trouble, but frankly, most people do it at home. You'll need to heat it for 3 hours and then let it come back to room temperature. 300 degrees or hotter is needed, but you will have more smoke with more heat. CAUTION: if done indoors, this will generate a fair amount of smoke, so get ready to open your windows and have a fan going!
When you wash your oven, do not use soap and water as it will possibly cause rust. You can either just wipe them out with oil, or if you prefer, boil some water in them using the same coals you just cooked over. Then, wipe out, dry thoroughly and re-coat with oil or grease.
The first 5 cooking sessions should not include any acidic foods, like tomatoes, vinegar etc.. this will remove the very coating you are trying to get going on your iron.
Next time- some great recipes straight from the great outdoors!
Tri Tip
this was the beginning of a TriTip stew that ended up pretty incredible!
Even Biscuits
A little flour and water and you have old fashioned trail biscuits - it doesn't get any better!
Knives and how to pick 'em
With getting back to the outdoors becoming more and more popular, it follows that learning about which knives do what and how to select the right knife for you is a topic worth visiting. It all depends upon your activity and personal preference but here is some information and advice. Hope you enjoy....Fixed, Folding or ???
So you've just started camping, or hiking or maybe it's just time to get your first knife. Men love knives (women do too:-) for a variety of reasons - it's part of our built-in DNA, primal being, they come in handy for just about anything from cutting rope or wood to opening packages. And they come in handy in a knife fight (just don't bring one to a gunfight). That was a joke.....
Well, your 2 basic choices are fixed blade vs folding. I'm going to leave out Multi-tools, Swiss Army Knives and the like since I plan to cover them in another post.
So let's look at the advantages of each:
Fixed Blade:
Advantages: Durable, always ready for use, stronger (blade metal usually runs through handle), easier to clean.
Folding Blade:
Advantages: Compact, safer, more versatile, and there are 3 types, each with their own distinct advantage:
1) Lockback - locks open and needs 2 hands to open or close, the safest.
2) Liner-Lock - locks open, but can be opened with one hand, perfect for climbers, hikers with a pole etc...
3) Pocket knife - the old standby we all had as kids. Main advantage is very compact size, you can always have them with you for opening packages, etc.....
Well, your 2 basic choices are fixed blade vs folding. I'm going to leave out Multi-tools, Swiss Army Knives and the like since I plan to cover them in another post.
So let's look at the advantages of each:
Fixed Blade:
Advantages: Durable, always ready for use, stronger (blade metal usually runs through handle), easier to clean.
Folding Blade:
Advantages: Compact, safer, more versatile, and there are 3 types, each with their own distinct advantage:
1) Lockback - locks open and needs 2 hands to open or close, the safest.
2) Liner-Lock - locks open, but can be opened with one hand, perfect for climbers, hikers with a pole etc...
3) Pocket knife - the old standby we all had as kids. Main advantage is very compact size, you can always have them with you for opening packages, etc.....
How To Choose
There really are no best knives, as you've guessed by now. It depends on your needs:
House or Office workers - a good old pocket (pen) knife
Hikers - A folding lockback or liner if you'll have only one free hand
Climbers, Boaters - A liner lock
Light campers - A lockback or liner lock on your belt
Serious campers - A lockback and a good solid fixed blade knife
Hunters - Fixed blade
Or get a couple of each and start a collection - it's a fun hobby and you can actually use your toys!
House or Office workers - a good old pocket (pen) knife
Hikers - A folding lockback or liner if you'll have only one free hand
Climbers, Boaters - A liner lock
Light campers - A lockback or liner lock on your belt
Serious campers - A lockback and a good solid fixed blade knife
Hunters - Fixed blade
Or get a couple of each and start a collection - it's a fun hobby and you can actually use your toys!
What To Have In Your Survival (Bug-Out) Bag
No one knows if the next big disaster will happen to them or exactly what it will be. But everyone should be prepared for an eventuality that has happened many times and is likely to happen again i.e. a natural disaster. There are many other possible scenarios in which you may need a pack like this, heck, you could even use it camping, I do. And I'm assuming at least a basic knowledge of the outdoors, fire-starting and the like, if you are a total city slicker, then go and get some instruction. The best thing about a bag like this is that it's easy and fun to put together, and even if you (hopefully) never use it, you can use everything in it anyways! So here it is, in my order of importance.
1) BAG - Sounds obvious , but the best advice is to get a good pack or bag to put everything in. Not a cheap one. Companies like 5.11 Tactical and Blackhawk make heavy duty, military style packs. They cost a bit more, but will last forever and have all sorts of useful pockets and compartments that most 'ordinary' people wouldn't think about.
2) WATER - Some packs have a built in hydration system, some have external webbed bottle carriers, but one way or another you'll need about 2 qts per day per person. Also under this category, I'd advise throwing in some purification tablets. You never know what kind of water you're going to end up with.
3) WEAPON - Some people scoff at putting a weapon in their bag. If you're not comfortable with a pistol, then get a Taser , Stun Gun or Pepper Spray. Reason? You may have the best bag out there, but if you ever need it, it's likely to be during bad times of one sort or another. And other people, even ones that used to be nice folks, will take your bag from you. Period.
4) FOOD - You won't have lots of room, so keep it simple. The food must be small, contain lots of calories, and be able to stay fresh for a long time. Protein bars are good, so are MRE's (Meals Ready to Eat) like the military uses. Dried fruit or other dried staples are good as well.
5) FIRE - You may be living outdoors, but regardless, you'll need a way to start a fire. To stay warm, heat food, purify water, or signal for help. A BIC lighter, some waterproof matches, AND a flint striker type of tool should all be in your bag. And some sort of tinder. You can use some of the items in your bag if necessary.
6) LIGHT - A small to medium size flashlight will suffice, along with extra batteries. You'll need to be able to see at night, and you can signal as well. My advice would be to add a headlamp style light to free up your hands for carrying tools, weapons or climbing.
7) KNIFE - A good knife will be invaluable as a tool or weapon. Like everything else on this list, do not go cheap on this one. Expect to pay around $100 for a good knife with sheath. The question will be: fixed blade or folding? This will be a personal decision with many pros and cons on each side. See my other blog on this topic....
8) FIRST AID KIT - A must have, you can get a nice size one for under $20 or go a bit larger if you like. If you live in a desert region, throw in a snakebite kit.
9) SHELTER - This will refer to both clothing and housing, anything to keep the wet and cold (or heat) off your body. Once again, you may be living outdoors, or in a structure that has lost electricity and gas, so based on your particular area, choose the appropriate items. Space blankets can double as a sleeping bag or an overhead protector from sun or rain. Extra socks are a good idea, the feet always need to be kept in good shape, and a bandana, see http://survivalcache.com/30-uses-for-a-bandana/ or use a shemaugh, a cotton desert headdress worn by desert tribes and made popular by US Forces serving in that region.
10) WHISTLE/MIRROR/COMPASS - I put these together since they can often be purchased as a set, and you won't need the absolute best of these for an emergency, you'll just be glad you have them when you need them.
11) MULTI TOOL - A good, full-size multi-tool could save your life. Or at least make it a lot easier. Leatherman, SOG and Gerber all make good ones and a little research will find the one that fits you best. Again, this will not be cheap, $80 - $140 will be needed to get a good one, or eBay can be a good place to find one used. The pliers will come in handy along with the bit drivers, can openers and bottle opener.
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Flooring system
The next step was to put in the 'girders' (I'll call them) or the horizontal supports that are attached to either side of the poles and will hold the floor joists. Getting the poles squared was difficult and time consuming (and didn't yield any cool pics) so I'll skip to the girders:
Essentially it's like this - run the 2 x 10 girders between the poles, hang the 2 x 10 joists between them (I picked 24" on center for everything, which I'll explain in framing later), and screw/nail/bolt everything together. Using both nails and screws is a must on the desert since the constant heat changes creates contractions which have been known to eventually pop the nails out......
Next step was to add insulation to the floor before sheeting it with plywood. Close to a foot of insulation in the floor should give the house a big advantage in both the chilly winter nights and the hot summer days, if I figure right...
So I attached a thin water resistant ply to the bottom of the joists and filled them with R-30 before installing the 3/4' CDX subfloor.
Gotta seal it up really well so the critters don't get in, silicone, foam etc should do the trick....
Next up, finishing the floor and finding the last two poles..............
Essentially it's like this - run the 2 x 10 girders between the poles, hang the 2 x 10 joists between them (I picked 24" on center for everything, which I'll explain in framing later), and screw/nail/bolt everything together. Using both nails and screws is a must on the desert since the constant heat changes creates contractions which have been known to eventually pop the nails out......
Next step was to add insulation to the floor before sheeting it with plywood. Close to a foot of insulation in the floor should give the house a big advantage in both the chilly winter nights and the hot summer days, if I figure right...
So I attached a thin water resistant ply to the bottom of the joists and filled them with R-30 before installing the 3/4' CDX subfloor.
Gotta seal it up really well so the critters don't get in, silicone, foam etc should do the trick....
Next up, finishing the floor and finding the last two poles..............
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Starting to build!
In November of 2010, we had decided on a design for our cabin. It was going to be an old-fashioned Pole House. (Rather than have me explain what that is here, google Pole Houses and you'll see some great sites) So the hunt began for poles - I assumed going in that there would be poles laying all over the place, right? Well, no such luck, apparently when power companies take down old poles, their current way to dispose of them is to cut them up into small pieces, and I needed 20 foot tall poles. So after searching craigslist for a while, I found a guy with (3) 50 poles which he cut in half and delivered for me. With the help of a backhoe and a few friends, the project began!
The digging was ridiculously hard as the ground proved to be basically solid rock. It took about an hour to set each pole:
But perseverance paid off and by the end of the day we had 6 poles set:
After a day like this the beer sure tasted great, and it was a beautiful sunset!
The digging was ridiculously hard as the ground proved to be basically solid rock. It took about an hour to set each pole:
But perseverance paid off and by the end of the day we had 6 poles set:
After a day like this the beer sure tasted great, and it was a beautiful sunset!
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
The Desert Sky
The sky at Sunrise and Sunset can be glorious, actually it usually is.... Due to the distance from any large city combined with the ultra dry air, visibility is unlike anywhere else. Here's some sunsets, sunrises, moonrises, etc...
Hope you enjoyed!
Hope you enjoyed!
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